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Most periodic maintenance tasks on the big CBR are quite
simple and can be accomplished with anyone having a modicum of
mechanical aptitude, a shop manual, and a couple of wrenches.
As of spring 2006 the bike has a bit over 40,000 miles
on the clock and the only problem I've had with it involves the voltage
rectifier/regulator (see below). Other than that the bike has run
flawlessly. I'd buy it all over again; it is a very nice compromise
between comfort and speed.
Carb Synchronisation
For this I use an analog vacuum differential gauge, such
as the Twin Max. The process is a bit tedious since it involves taking
off the front lower fairing. Before performing this adjustment, make
sure that the valve clearance, idle speed and throttle & choke cable
slack are correctly set. The carbs are synchronised at idle speed with
the engine at normal operating temperature.
The reference carb on the CBR-1000F (R) is #3. This carb
is not adjusted. The vacuum ports are located under carbs #2 & #4, and
behind carb #1. All but #2 are easily accessible. #2 requires either a
well-trained squirrel helper or a long pair of needle nose pliers. The
correct order for setting the carbs (if this is being done by pairs) is
#2, #1, #4. Each is compared to #3 in turn, and adjusted via a somewhat
difficult to reach screw residing between the carb bodies and accessible
from above, between the head cover and the carbs. It is important to
blip the throttle after moving the adjusting screw to make sure that the
mechanism has settled against the stop since the adjustment process
itself has a tendency to alter this as the screwdriver pushes down on
the rail that houses the screws. This is an annoying variation of the
Heisenberg principle. Also, while a pair of carbs are being worked on,
the other two should have their vacuum ports covered.
I usually do this yearly and it does make the bike run
smoother and better.
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Ready to start the carb synching job.
Note that it is unnecessary to take off the entire front fairing. I was doing some other stuuff at the time. |
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View of the valve cover and carbs. The adjustment screws are hidden in that mess.
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The vacuum ports are accessible from right above and fwd. of the alternator (for #1 & #2 carbs).
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This is the differential vacuum gauge that I use.
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[Back to top]
Chain Lubrication and Adjustment
At 37,000 miles I had to
replace the original chain. I also changed the countersprocket despite
the fact that it looked basically perfect, just on the assumption that
it spins 2x to 3x more than the rear, and old wives recommend swapping
(both) sprockets when the chain is replaced. I did not replace the back
sprocket. We will see if it "trashes" the expensive new chain. I will
report here... Two very important ingredients for the longevity of the
final drive are cleanliness and lubrication. I prefer to use a dry-type
lubricant, such as chain wax. Before applying it, I thoroughly clean the
chain with a rag and kerosene. If it is badly soiled, I submerge it in
kerosene and remove the dirt with a toothbrush. When the kerosene has
dried, I spray it with chain wax. This procedure happens every 1,000
miles or so. Shorter intervals if I ride in rain or dusty environments.
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For this process I lock the clutch in place to avoid disaster.
There is sufficient friction to spin the wheel this way in 1st gear. I only do this when spraying the lubricant. |
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Filthy chain, sprocket and wheel.
This is after riding in the rain, and is about as dirty as it ever gets. |
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Another view of the chain.
It has been 800 miles since the last clean/lube. This chain has about 3500 miles so it is basically new. |
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Removing the chain guard is useful while cleaning and lubing.
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Now the chain and sprocket are clean and ready to be lubricated.
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Here the chain has been generously sprayed with Chain Wax.
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Now the wheel is clean and ready to go.
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[Back to top]
Tire Swap
Until 40,000 miles I
always used Dunlop Sportmax tires (207 or equivalent). The grip on the
Dunlops is extraordinary. However, they wear out quite rapidly, so I am
trying a set of Pirelli Diablos (Strada compound) to see if I can
increase the mileage without sacrificing too much grip.
I do not mount & balance tires myself on this bike, but
I will use this section to report on the Pirellis' results.
Update: After the long trip to Oregon, the tires now
have approx. 7500 miles. There is a worn out section in the center, and
despite noticeable, does not affect handling too much. Clearly the tires
still have a lot of tread left. I would expect them to reach 12,000
miles. Remarkable!
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Scrubbing the brand new tires with a stiff wire brush prior to first use.
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Rear tire after 750 miles.
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Front tire after 750 miles.
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Front tire after ca. 7,500 miles.
Note a "flat spot" along the middle, but not too crucial. |
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Rear tire after ca. 7,500 miles.
Note a "flat spot" along the middle, but not too crucial. |
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[Back to top]
Swingarm Removal
There is no reason why anybody should
ever have to do this for normal maintenance. However, you will have no
choice if terrible luck befalls on this part of your bike's anatomy. In
my bike's case, this took the form of a sulfuric acid spill due to a
disconnected battery exhaust hose. This left unsightly (yet superficial)
that had to be sanded and painted, but the only way to do this was to
remove the part.
The shop book is fairly good at
describing the process, except that pulling out the shock was not as
easy as they said. Tilting it to the right will aid in its extrication.
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The bike is prepared for swingarm removal.
Front tire had been removed for ulterior motives. |
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Detail of the front.
Notice the front calipers suspended so as to not hang from the hoses. |
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View of the injury.
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Another view of the wheel-less front.
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Rear end sans wheel with swingarm still in place.
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Rear end sans wheel with swingarm still in place.
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Closeup of the injury.
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Another view prior to removal.
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Some suspension bolts were also marred by the acid.
The damage is superficial and was wire-brushed off. |
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Once removed, the injury is more evident.
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A closer view...
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The underside.
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The removed components.
Chainguard, shock, swingarm, suspension link, and suspension arm. |
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The bike sans swingarm.
Note the wood block helping support the rear caliper. |
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Another view.
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And another view.
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Days later.... the freshly painted swingarm.
Thank you Shawn, beautiful job! |
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Looks better than new with nice metal-flake automotive paint.
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Another view of the former unsightly area.
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[Back to top]
Valve Clearance Adjustment
Setting the valves is another
relatively simple but tedious task. Unlike the carb synchronisation,
this is to be performed with the engine cold. The gas tank, ignition
coils and cables, air dam and other minutia need to be removed to make
way for the valve cover. The actual measuring of the clearances is
trivial, and is discussed below. What gets a bit tricky is
adjusting a valve with the inner (adjusting) screw, and then committing
said adjustment with the outer locknut simultaneously. For that purpose,
a special tool is summoned: a 10 mm deep-socket with the sides filed
down so you can grab it real good with a pair of vise grips. Honda is
also happy to sell you the "official" special tool, but at $2 for a deep
socket and with a vise-grip being one of the most common tools for
proper human survival, forget Honda.
Always follow the measurement order
and specs from your shop manual. If you don't have a shop manual, you
probably shouldn't be doing this.
I like to use a small mirror when
installing the valve cover: it lets me confirm that the gasket is
correctly seated particularly around the front end, which is not easy to
see, while also allowing me to remain presentable throughout the
process.
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The "special tool" to adjust the valves. Note that the deep 10mm socket has been filed down a bit on the sides to get a good grip with the vise.
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First order of business is to remove some plastic, gas tank, and ignition coils to gain proper access.
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View of the work area.
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Ignition coils and cables.
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Close-up of coil bracket. This broke at ca. 25,000 miles and had to be welded.
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The work area is ready.
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Close-up of the work area.
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It is quite easy to turn the engine (always in CCW direction) to align timing markings.
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Index mark on intake side timing chain sprocket properly aligned to start measuring sequence.
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It is easiest to measure the gap with the gauge pointing to the bike’s tail (for intake valves). Shown: cyl 1 intake.
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It is easiest to measure the gap with the gauge pointing to the bike’s front (for exhaust valves). Shown: cyl 2 exhaust.
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Close-up of feeler-gauge between cam and valve actuator.
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Tool in place for adjustment of cyl 4 intake valve.
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[Back to top]
Voltage Regulator
The only flaw I have found on this
bike is the fact that the voltage rectifier/regulator runs very hot, and
it also has a tendency to overcharge the battery. I think that when the
battery is no longer in its best health, the reg tries to unsuccessfully
bring up the battery's voltage so it keeps on throwing current at it,
causing it to boil over and accelerating its demise. I have had 2
batteries die of complete electrolyte exhaustion after long trips and
after serious introspection I can only attribute this to an overzealous
reg.
At approx 37,000 miles the reg died a
violent death. It simply exploded, and had to be replaced. I have
installed a new reg which I retrofitted with a heat sink in an effort to
reduce its running temperature. Given the location, I doubt that the
airflow in this area of the bike (under the left-side rear cowling) is
significant, so I may add, as an auxiliary measure, a CPU fan in the
future, hopefully before it fries
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View of the fried regulator.
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View of the new regulator.
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New regulator and old Pentium heat sink.
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Heat sink installed on the new reg.
Note the use of heat sink compound and the two clips made of wire. |
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Detailed view.
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View from top.
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Fried regulator.
I tried to extricate the $0.50 worth of resistors to try to duplicate the stupid little box, but the maker buries them in the nastiest epoxy-type thing. It is impossible to figure out what was in there. Price of a new one, over $100. |
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Closeup of the failed autopsy.
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The new heat-sink equipped reg installed on the bike.
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[Back to top]
Speedometer drive cup overhaul
On this bike, the speedometer cable is
driven not by the front wheel, but by the bolt that holds the
counter-sprocket in place. A small nylon cup fits over the bolt and is
kept in place by the housing that covers the counter-sprocket. For
whatever reason, every 20,000 miles or so, the speedometer drive cup
wears out. The edges round out, and then the whole thing can break. No
doubt part of Honda's plan to sell you more stuff.
While at the Lancair factory I decided
to reinforce said cup. Predictably (given my location) I chose carbon
fibre and flox-reinforced Hysol. Now that should fix it for good.
I used the Hysol to re-create the
hexagon's edges for a very precise fit, and placed some carbon fibre at
the "bottom" of the cup for good measure. The results were excellent,
and I do not expect it to fail in 20,000 miles again.
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Counter-sprocket bolt and speedo-drive cup.
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Note the new edges made from Hysol and carbon fibre at the bottom.
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[Back to top]
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